Archive for August, 2006

The Colombia One

Thursday, August 31st, 2006

Racked

At the Museum of the Spanish Inquisition in Cartagena

For the last two weeks of our trip, we wanted to go somewhere peaceful and relaxing. Naturally we chose Colombia.

Colombia gets a lot of bad press. Bogota is a modern industrial city with a sparkling new public transportation system, stylish restaurants and bars, and lots of pretty redbrick buildings around a very pretty colonial core. Yes, the security guards at your local supermarket have bullet-proof vests that look thick enough to stop a shell from one of their own pump-action shotguns, but it’s safe. At least the northern and central parts of the city are safe. In the daytime.

But the real issue turned out to be whether I was safe enough for the Colombians.

Just before 9/11, three alleged members of the IRA were arrested on their way out of Colombia and accused of training FARC guerillas. It seemed a strange, magical realist sort of retirement job for Irish terrorists. Their own story, that they travelled on false passports into the Colombian jungle in order ‘to observe the peace process,’ was never very credible, but it also seemed odd that the rich and well-armed FARC, a state within a state that controls half of Colombia, should have anything to learn from the IRA.

They were tried, acquitted on the main charges, and released. The prosecution appealed and the ‘Colombia 3′ were convicted the second time around. But in the meantime they had fled back to Ireland. Ireland has no extraditon agreement with Colombia and won’t negotiate one, citing Colombia´s poor human rights record. (For the same reason U2 refuses to perform there, which seems to bother ordinary Colombians a lot more.) Ever since then Irish citizens, alone among the citizens of western Europe, have required a visa in order to enter Colombia.

I was reminded of all this when I tried, unsuccesfully, to board a plane to Bogota two weeks ago.

I had gotten complacent. Colombia is the 14th country that we have visited on this trip, and the only other place where I needed a visa in advance was communist Vietnam, where everyone needs a visa. An Irish passport is normally a free pass. Oliver North used to carry one, apparently. But not in Colombia.

The staff of Taca airlines offered to let Summer board without me. She considered leaving her idiot husband in Peru, but decided to stay with me. I did what any man would do in the circumstances: got down on my knees and begged for forgiveness.

We checked into a hotel in Lima and I started researching the visa process while Summer worked on the forgiveness, a task that became even harder when I learned that it usually takes two weeks to get a visa, if you get one at all.

So I am extremely grateful to the Colombian consulate in Lima for granting me a visa in one day. I showed up at opening time with all of the paperwork they requested, got an interview with the consul within two hours, and had my visa at 5 p.m. (Note to other Irish citizens thinking of trying this - it made a big difference that I have a U.S. greencard.) They saved the last two weeks of our trip, and my marriage with it.

Macaws at Manu

Wednesday, August 30th, 2006

Macaw Clay Lick

This is one of my favorite photos from the trip. Summer and I spent three weeks in Peru, visiting the major sites around Cusco and spending three days in Lima (unintentionally - more on that later). We also spent five days in Peru´s part of the Amazon rainforest, near the great natural reserve of Parque Manu.

Early one morning we visited a macaw clay lick. Macaws are wonderful birds, highly intelligent, big, raucous, long-lived, and often fond of people. They make good pets - so good that the pet trade is the biggest threat to their existence in the wild, along with habitat destruction. As they become more rare the problem gets worse. Prices go up, attracting more trappers. The red-and-green macaws seen above are safe for now, but that is thanks in part to a captive breeding program.   

Macaws eat clay because it trace elements that they need and because a lining of clay in their stomachs helps them to digest food that would otherwise be poisonous. But it is dangerous for them to descend from the canopy where they spend most of their time to the handful of river banks where the composition of clay is just right. Here they are exposed, vulnerable to predators like eagles, jaguars, and humans.

We had to wait three hours to get this picture, while hundreds of macaws gathered in the trees above. They flew reconnaissance missions, swooping down in ones and twos to check for threats. A gust of wind, the sound of a twig breaking, at one point a single red squirrel sent them back to the safety of the treetops.

When they did finally come down, we only had our point-and-shoot cameras, the Casio Exilims that we´ve used for every photo on this trip. But the macaws were about 200 feet from our hide. So this picture was shot through one lens of a pair of binoculars carried by our guide José Antonio. He and I took a few dozen shots each and this one, which he took, was the only shot that worked. Thank you José.    

Viva Mi Patria Bolivia

Wednesday, August 30th, 2006

Evo

Evo Morales in his office, in front of a portrait of Che Guevara that is made out of coca leaves. Snatched from the AP, via the BBC.

Things are not going well this week for Evo Morales, the President of Bolivia. He is facing multiple strikes, a crisis at the assembly he created to draft a new constitution, and he had to send in troops to re-open the gas pipeline to Argentina after indigenous protestors sabotaged it.

Evo, as everyone calls him, has called capitalism the greatest enemy of mankind, and his party´s platform calls for the destruction of neoliberalism. His Vice-President is widely admired for having read Das Kapital before he was ten years old. He has allied himself with Hugo Chavez and praised Castro. And not surprisingly coca production appears to have increased dramatically since this former leader of the coca-growers took office. He is not getting an invitation to Crawford anytime soon.

But spare a thought for Evo and for Bolivia if you have time this week.

First a brief summary of the history of every country in Latin America from the Spanish conquest until at least 1980: one elite minority after another hijacked the state and enriched themselves at the expense of everyone else. There were a few brief intervals when well-intentioned governments got in, but most of the time it was military oppression, judicial murder and expropriation, bespoke constitutions, manipulation of both sides in the Cold War, and (even under benign governments) endemic corruption.

Bolivia fared worse than most, precisely because it is so rich in minerals. The indigenous people were effectively enslaved by the Spanish to work in Bolivia´s mines. Such were the stakes for both the Bolivians and the Spanish Empire that Bolivia was the first colony to declare independence but the last to get it. After that mining conditions improved - er, from slavery - but somehow the great mass of the people never got to benefit from the wealth.

In Bolivia the familiar Latin American class divide is deepened by race. The climate of the altiplano was too harsh for most of the Spanish and there was no silver or gold in the pleasant lowlands. The lowlands were fertile, but the Spanish thought that farming was beneath them and they did not allow other nationalities to immigrate to their colonies. Today 55% of the Bolivian population are of indigenous descent and only 15% are descended from the Spanish or other Europeans who arrived after independence (the rest are mixed-race). But guess who has most of the money.

And for the most part the races live separately, as Miss Bolivia explained during the 2004 Miss World pageant:

"Um… unfortunately, people that don’t know Bolivia very much think that we are all just Indian people from the west side of the country, it’s La Paz all the image that we reflect, is that poor people and very short people and Indian people … I’m from the other side of the country, the east side and it’s not cold, it’s very hot and we are tall and we are white people and we know English so all that misconception that Bolivia is only an "Andean" country, it’s wrong, Bolivia has a lot to offer and that’s my job as an ambassador of my country to let people know much diversity we have."

Condemned in the west, she was greeted by cheering crowds on her return to the east.

Last year Evo became the first President of indigenous descent in Bolivia´s history, with 54% of the vote. Many middle-class people of all races voted for him because they wanted a break with the corrupt past, but he owes his job to poor indigenous people who want social justice, and who will walk away from him if they are not happy with the pace or style of reform. Hence the new strikes, which include teachers protesting the idea of making indigenous languages compulsory in schools and bus drivers who are upset that Evo wants to start enforcing Bolivia´s existing traffic laws.

So in the light of all this, consider just two issues facing Bolivia: the nationalization of the gas reserves, and land reform.

On May 1st, Evo nationalized Bolivia´s gas fields and sent troops into the facilities of many foreign companies that had private contracts. To the international community, it looked like the Russian Revolution. But the TV images of troops on the move were mostly for domestic consumption, in a country where 94% of the people had voted in favor of nationalization in a referendum even before Evo was elected.

What the Bolivian government is actually trying to do is not to boot out foreign investors, but to renegotiate their contracts, which it claims were struck at a crazy discount to fair value by a previous corrupt administration and were never properly ratified by Congress. These are not unreasonable claims. They could have tried international arbitration, but it was faster, cheaper, and infinitely more popular to send in the army.

At the same time as nationalizing the oil fields, the Bolivian government has been negotiating new mining contracts with companies from the U.S. and India, and Evo sent his Vice-President to Washington to campaign for a renewal of Bolivia´s free-trade agreement with the U.S. And the company that has most to lose from Bolivia´s nationalization scheme is not Exxon but Petrobras, the state-owned oil company of Bolivia´s neighbor Brazil, which has a socialist goverment. My point is that things are not as clear-cut as they appear either in the Guardian or on Fox News.

Much less reported in the international press but much uglier within Bolivia is the debate over land reform. Put simply, previous administrations bought off powerful supporters in the rich eastern part of the country with vast grants of land, much of which remains undeveloped. Meanwhile, the poor try to eke out a living with no land at all or on small plots that get smaller with each generation as they are subdivided among children. Evo wants to take undeveloped land from the rich and give it to the poor. This may sound revolutionary, but as long as the landowners are compensated somehow, it is no different from the concept of eminent domain in the U.S. Constitution.

But it´s dangerous to talk about large-scale land reform without delivering anything concrete. Now peasants anticipating grants are squatting on farms and threatening landowners. Landowners are hiring armed guards. Some of the landowners do have legitimate title to their land for which they paid fair value; others have no intention of giving up what their families were given, no matter what the consequences, a militant form of the endowment effect. And how do you prove that agricultural land is undeveloped? It may be lying fallow. Congress has blocked all of Evo´s proposals so far, leading Evo to call for popular protests, which in turns lends credence to those who say he wants to take over the state.

The Constitutional Congress in Sucre is Evo´s attempt to bypass Parliament and the existing laws, but in the spirit of democracy. The delegates have a year to draft a new constitution which will then be put directly to the people in a referendum. But Evo’s party failed to win a majority of the delegates to the Congress, and now that seems deadlocked too.

I don´t claim to have any answers to Bolivia´s problems. I just don´t believe that Evo is another wannabe dictator, a megalomaniac in the mould of Chavez or Castro. But if Venezuela and Cuba are the only foreign countries that will support this (still) wildly popular and democratically elected leader, who seems genuinely motivated to redress centuries of injustice, then the western governments, narrowly focused on backing their own oil companies, will be fulfilling their own prophesies.

Lake Titicaca

Wednesday, August 2nd, 2006

Isla del Sol

The view from outside our hotel room on the Isla del Sol.

We entered Bolivia in the remote south-west and crossed the Salar de Uyuni; we left by the far northern route, crossing Lake Titicaca.

The Salar is the largest salt lake in the world. Not to be outdone, Titicaca is the highest navigable body of water in the world, one of the world’s deepest lakes, and the largest freshwater lake in South America.

Even now during the Bolivian winter the temperature never drops below zero at night, and during the day it was a very pleasant 18°C . The Isla del Sol - supposed birthplace of the founders of the Inca Empire and so the most famous of the 70-odd islands scattered across the lake - is green and fertile. Foreign backpackers and Bolivian daytrippers from La Paz sip coca tea and watch the sun go down from one of the many terraces built a thousand years ago, long before the Incas, to irrigate the soil.

Yet Titicaca and the Isla del Sol are two or three hundred meters higher than the Salar and its bizarre Isla Pesca, pictured at the bottom of my previous post.

In this satellite image of Bolivia that I robbed from NASA, Titicaca is the blue patch at the top and the Salar de Uyuni is the white patch at the bottom. There is a smaller salt lake above the Salar de Uyuni called Coipasa, and the light grey area above and to the right of them is the very salty Lake Poopó.

To give a sense of the scale in this picture, the Salar de Uyuni is over 10,000 square kilometers in area - about the same size as Lebanon. Neil Armstrong could see it shining from the moon.

The western half of Bolivia is dominated by two parallel ranges of the Andes. Between them lies a depression called the altiplano, the high plain where we spent almost all of our time. This corridor of land, larger in area than Ireland, slopes gently downwards from Titicaca in the north to the Salar in the south.

12,000 years ago, as the last Ice Age came to an end, the altiplano was entirely covered by a vast inland sea that geologists call Lake Ballivián. (This lake in turn may originally have been part of the Pacific Ocean, cut off by the great forces that pushed and folded the Andes into existence.) Glacial meltwaters emptying into the northern end of Ballivián gradually diluted it, carrying the salt south; rising temperatures caused it to evaporate. As the water level fell, two new, smaller lakes were formed: Titicaca in the north, and Lake Minchin in the south, connected by rivers. Finally, Minchin evaporated completely, leaving the shallow, salty Poopó - into which Titicaca still drains via the River Desaguadero - and the 10 billion tons of salt we call the Salar de Uyuni.

This is a story of climate change, and not just steady global warming following the end of the Ice Age. The desert coastal regions to the west of the altiplano get less than 100 mm of rain per annum, the Amazon rainforests to the east more than 1,500 mm; slight changes in those rates of precipitation and in the rate of evaporation have significant effects on the levels of the lakes. But the lakes themselves have a profound effect on climate. Titicaca is so deep that its temperature is near constant, and it regulates the climate of the surrounding area - which is why the Isla del Sol is fertile and never freezes and the Salar de Uyuni is a barren place where temperatures can fall to -30 °C on the same night, the question that bugged me in the first place. So climate change even in this relatively small part of the world can be extremely complex. Yet it can have drastic effects on human life. Changes in the level of Titicaca were partly or wholly responsible for the collapse of the Tiwanaku civilization, two hundred years before the Incas.

Kalasasaya

The Kalasasaya temple at Tiwanaku, already a ruin when the Spanish arrived. It used to be on the shores of Lake Titicaca, but the lake is now 20 kilometers away.

I don´t understand why some people think that science undermines our sense of awe and wonder. I don´t know of any story of gods or monsters throwing up mountains or gouging out lakes that is more extraordinary than these theories, or that carries a more potent moral - for those who take climate change for granted today.